My Time Photographing At The Killing Fields
I had to delve deep into the archives for this photo. I believe it was 1994, not long after Aussie Tourist David Wilson was captured and murdered by the Khmer Rouge.
My Dear Old Mum And The Biggest Lie Of My Life
I had been planning to visit Cambodia, as well as other countries in the region, for some time. But after all the publicity surrounding David Wilson, I promised by mother that I wouldn't go.
I rang my mum and confessed my lie, after arriving in Bangkok, near the end of the trip. I hold the telling of lies to be very ordinary behavior indeed. And I only did it to save my mum a great deal of anxiety.
The fact was that the dreaded Khmer Rouge were very much on the run. However, David Wilson had been captured when the train he was traveling on had been ambushed by Khmer Rouge forces. If I remember right the train, and that area of the country, were known to be dangerous for travelers at that time.
Travel | The Things That You Do
On the other hand I felt confident as I was flying to the nations capital, Phnom Penh, and from there directly onto the world heritage listed Angkor Wat. It seemed safe enough. But then I was young.
I was somewhat surprised to discover that, not only did I set eyes on just a handful of fellow tourists during my three days visiting Angkor Wat, but that the Cambodian army were still fighting Khmer Rouge troops in the mountains not far away.
I approached a senior army official, a general I think, and arranged for two cars and a small complement of troops to accompany me to Banteay Srei, a small temple on the outskirts of the huge Angkor Wat complex.
Banteay Srei | The Day When Guns Broke The Silence
My car was positioned in the middle of the convoy. The idea being that, if the road had been mined, the front car would likely cop the blast. I was told that the troops were there not so much to protect me from the Khmer Rouge, but from regular army troops who had defected and turned to banditry after not being paid. It was suggested to me that the money reached the General, and that was where it stayed.
Banteay Srei itself was a lovely site, though I have never known such humidity. The sweat was pouring off my face and into my eyes, where it stung. I swear I could even see humidity in the air around me.
At one stage, just as I was about to release my camera's shutter, a huge boom pierced the silence. I turned to my guide and asked what was going on. He explained that, "It's the army firing on the Khmer Rouge".
Concerned, I asked, "How far away are they".
He said, "Maybe twenty kilometers" so, apparently, there was no need to worry. I took a moment to look into the impenetrable jungle that surrounded us and, somewhat perplexed, went back to making photos.
The Killing Fields And The Duality Of Beauty And Horror
The above photo was made at the infamous Killing Fields, not far out of Phnom Penh. I'm very much interested in duality and the horror depicted in the shrine, containing actual skulls from folks brutally murdered at this very site, is juxtaposed by what is, I hope, a beautiful black and white image.
The Killing Fields is quite a surreal place. Earlier that day I had visited Tuol Sleng Museum Of Genocide, a former school used as a torture facility for many of those who were then taken to the Killing Fields to meet their final doom.
It was a very morbid place and a look into the insane philosophy that underpinned the Khmer Rouge. To be murdered just because the glasses you were wearing marked you as educated is not what you expect in a deeply Buddhist country. Such madness defines logic and is profoundly troubling.
Why Is It That You Travel The World?
Travel is probably the best thing we can do for ourselves. It's a great way to explore and experience the Human Condition and really makes you grateful for the country you were born in and the opportunities available to you.
Ultimately, travel makes you focus on improving yourself so that you can help others. I'd say that's money well spent. Wouldn't you?